Monday, March 17, 2008

Stilts and Huts....PEOPLE...Beauty. Comfort. Peace. Insight

Ah....this weekends adventures were so amazing...and much needed! i will try my best to explain the beauty, excitement, and thrill of my weekend, but quite honestly, i don't think words do the experience justice....

So, me and four friends (Jesse, Avra, Jenna and Duncan) left the university at 3am on Friday morning. We knew that it was going to be hard to get a taxi that early, so i arranged one the night before. Unfortunately he didn't show up! i was a little worried (of course) that we were going to miss our 4am bus, but fortunately this is Ghana and the concept of time barely exists. we arrived at the bus station "right on time" (such a loose term here) and we still ended up waiting for over an hour for our bus to leave!

Our first destination was to a small village built on stilts called Nzulezo. Of course none of us really knew how to get there, how long it should take, or even how to say the name of the place we were going....we were relying on a short blurb in the guide book and some broken directions from locals to get us there. We had to get off the bus in a large city called Tokoradi and find a tro-tro to take us the rest of the way....luckily some nice people had sympathy for us five Obruni's wondering aimlessly through the streets- they led us to the tro-tro station and helped us buy our 2 dollar tickets. Since we had been told that there was no tro-tro that went directly to this place, we were a little worried we were headed for some unknown destination. Nonetheless, we put or trust and faith in these people, and braved the tro-tro ride.

The Journey was long and bumpy..the tro-tro ride was 3 hours, but the drive was quite amazing and beautiful. It was so far away from the "city life." We got to pass through so many little villages.....it was so great to watch the people...and see the farm land...and just be surrounded by nature in general (i forget how much I love the country when i am in the city all the time!).

Anyway, after 6 hours of traveling we finally got to a quaint little village called Beyin. From here we walked about a mile through the wetlands-(which was so beautiful and peaceful. I finally felt like i was an in Africa... I fully expected to see and elephant cross in front of me- of course I didn't). We came to a swamp that we had to cross to get to our canoes...we had the choice of wading through it, or paying 50 cents to walk on a bridge (which looked like it could barley hold the weight of an ant). I chose the bridge...and although the branches it was made out of were extremely flexible, it was rather sturdy! We finally got to the canoes...the canoe ride to this village on stilts was SO BEAUTIFUL...quiet...relaxing! Lilly pads parted for us, and the birds sang for us the whole way.

We finally got to the village, and the only word I can think of right now to explain my reaction is awe....the place was not only beautiful, but it felt so comfortable and peaceful. Upon arrival, we met the chief of the village (who was actually the "acting chief" because the real chief was teaching in another village). funny enough...we had to great him with a bottle of gin in order to ask him questions....everything was already explained to us beforehand, so the meeting was brief- and before we parted he asked us for a "donation"....they say "give from your heart," but if you don't give an adequate amount he will ask for more (ah..... life)!

After meeting the chief we were free to roam the village. It was really interesting to compare the lifestyle of the people on this village to the people in other small villages...they seemed much more relaxed. All the little kids were playing in the water and most of the adults were laying outside of their hut sleeping. Some people were working (and when I say people i mean women- i saw very few men doing anything)- mostly preparing food..pounding fufu ect.

The thing about this village that makes it different that other villages, it that it is relatively sustainable. Most people living there make a living by farming (they have farm land in higher ground just outside of the village), or by making rafian wine out of the bark of a certain tree around there. Along with farming, there are a lot of chickens, goats, and tons of fish! The water that they live on is reportedly safe for the locals to drink (although, they do bathe in it and go to the bathroom in it...and it appears that it may also function as a trash can). With all of these resources, this village can survive (almost comfortably) without a lot of money....i think they make most of their money by taking Obruni's there every once in a while- and they don't have crafts or anything to sell! It was so refreshing to be with people and have real conversations without the ulterior motive of selling something.

Anyway, we spent our time there playing soccer with the kids, swimming in the water, and going on night canoing adventures. I spent the next morning listening to the clamor of the village while staring our over the glassy, quiet water...and i was filled with peace!

After our night on stilts, we set out for a new adventure...this time to Butre beach. Jesse and I decided we wanted to try village hopping before the beach, so we broke off from the group for the rest of the day. Our plan was to walk from village to village, but we soon realized that it would takes us weeks to get around that way (since they are so far in the country- and each one is like 20-40 miles apart! what were we thinking??) so we ended up in a few taxis. We really only got to one village called Axim. It was so fun- i encountered some of the most honest people ( and ironically some of the most dishonest people) that have yet to meet in Ghana in this village. during our time here we bought some palm wine (which tastes exactly like the smoked ham we have around Christmas) and we had lunch with a homeless man...and the reaction we got was rather saddening- this man was handicapped and people were making fun of him as he sat with us...they couldn't understand why we would buy him food! we talked with some other friendly people and even went to one woman's house....i would say the experience was great!

We finally got a taxi to take us to Butre beach to meet up with the other 3...and all I can say about this place is that it may be paradise! It is in another wonderful little village...with such wonderful people. the beach is so secluded.....quiet, calming, and beautiful! I spent the afternoon dancing with the little kids in the village, and talking to some people about life there- few people spoke very much English so communication was a little difficult, but it was good to hear from them. the village was full of families and goats...and disease (mostly elephantitis that I noticed). After dark, i went to our outdoor hut on the beach, read my book, and let the sound of the waves and cool breeze put me to sleep!

Before leaving to come back to Accra, I had the opportunity to go to the end of a church service in this village....it was all in fante so i couldn't understand it, but i had a palm branch to wave around! all the kids were so tickled with fascination and laughter with me...the only obruni in there (once again!). After church we took a 5 hour tro-tro ride back to Accra...which was long, hot, and uncomfortable...but i had a lot of time to think about my experiences....and grow from them.

My thought were turbulent...they went in circles from God, to money, to love, to control and back again....i struggled a bit with the fact that i live so comfortably while most of the world lives like the people i saw this weekend. Is is wrong to enjoy luxury? How do we all live well and comfortably...and without guilt or shame? There is something about life for these people that i will never grasp...that i am missing....How does money effect things....and how do we "fix" it?....but wait..that is just it- we are always thinking that we can "fix" things- like we know what is best... and what about the rich (they are people too!).... and oppression...and balance- and seeing people as PEOPLE- not as poor or rich...or as happy or suffering... seeing them on the inside not on the outside (regardless if they have money or not...if they are famished or fat...) and loving them! again...the theme of love- we are all people simply existing together...and we must love one another and share what we have to offer....

and what is the point to all this.....life....why did God put us here? why do we create and cling to meanings...and things that don't really matter....what does really matter? Anything?

All these thoughts.....and many more plague me at the moment, but i am learning a lot from them! No answers, but thinking is good!

I feel like there is so much more i could say about this experience...things that i wish I could explain. All in all though...i can pretty much sum up this experiences as beautiful, peaceful....and full of insights! A HUge growing experience for me..

God's Peace.....

1 comment:

C Bailey said...

Amanda,
This is such a beautiful post. Thank you. Thanks for the reminder that this life is fascinating, full of questions and awe.
- Casey