Thursday, March 27, 2008

HYPNOTIQ!!

I found my sanctuary in Ghana....it is a small bar called hypnotiq (what???)- yeah that is right...a bar! This charming little hole in the wall place has an open mic night for poetry and spoken word every Wednesday- generally speaking, I have never immersed myself into poetry....never saw the beauty in it...never appreciated it....and I definitely never considered myself to be a "poet"- in fact, i vividly remember the feeling of dread that overwhelmed me in high school when I was "forced" to write poetry.

Anyway, the feeling i get when i am in this place is one of complete comfort, enjoyment, awe, and understanding. So much talent, wisdom, and insight is shared among all of these souls....and surprisingly, i find myself participating in the flow of spoken word and poetry with ease, comfort, and confidence. I have never felt closer to God (away from worldly madness and into a deeper me) than I have at Hynotiq...where wonder and understanding surround me simultaneously. Sadly, this feeling seems to leave me the second i step out the door...back into the madness of the world.

While I can't recreate the experiences..the poetry...i will try to post some insights that i am left with to ponder....

This is the concept of freedom (and yes i wrote it just now-it was an idea that came up and of course i can't eloquently replicate the beautiful words and conversation around it....but here is a brief summary). And this does not just apply to human souls...i feel like it applies to everything...

All souls are free
Let them go
And you will gain...
For free souls will return to freedom

All souls are free
Do not cling to them
Or you will lose....
For free souls will escape your grasp
and leave to find freedom

Thursday, March 20, 2008

"Oh...on our way down there was a big cobra in our path"

The first thing i have to mention.....my dreaded image of people seeing a video of me dancing came much sooner than I ever expected- I was hoping I would no longer be in this country when it surfaced! It was on the 7 o'clock news the other night!!!! I walked into my hostel, and the lady at the front desk yelled, "Amanda, I saw you dancing on TV!!!!" Shortly after, a bunch of Ghanaian guys came up to me and said, "you like like a movie star in Ghana!"...needless to say, I was mortified.

Other than that, everything is going well here in Ghana. We traveled again this weekend- yet another amazing experience! Each trip somehow always seems better than the last. Jesse and I took a long journey through the Eastern region to meet up with our friend April in a quaint village called Amedzofe (which is atop a beautiful Mountain surrounded by lush rain forest!).

On our way, we had the opportunity to cross lake Volta into a village that hardly ever sees Obrunis. It had such a wonderfully different feel to it...it was almost like the people had not experienced enough tourism to develop the idea that all tourist are rich- people were so kind, genuine, and honest. We passed through this wonderful place on the lake to our first destination....Donkrokrom.

A few notes on our journey to Donkrokrom (i don't have time to paint you all picture of how interesting and funny our travels were, so a glimpse will have to do!)......

First, we left Legon at 6am to go to Accra to catch a tro-tro...we waited for 3 hours before our tro-to left. After our departure, as i was drifting into a light sleep and I heard Jesse laughing and telling me not to open my eyes..of course I did, and I realized that we were back in Legon! We could have saved ourselves 3 hours by leaving straight from Legon...

Next, after changing tro tros in Koforidua (where we were swarmed, and a taxi driver got in a fight with our tro-tro driver trying to make a few extra bucks on us), our tro tro started smoking as we slowly chugged up a mountain pass. All 40 of us got out and walked up this mountain! It was hot, but extremely beautiful.

Once we finally got to the top and on our way again, I watched our tro-tro fly 70 mph towards a truck going at least that fast towards us...I was sure we were going to die, but luckily the truck ONLY hit the side mirror! Although glass came flying into the windows, people were relatively unphased and we just kept driving. Before Jesse and could stop laughing, we were pulled over by the police. Apparently there have been a lot of armed robberies in that area lately, so they were just "checking us out."

We finally came to Adwaso...a one hut "village" on Lake Volta- from here we took a ferry across...when we got there, they wouldn't let our tro-tro through, so the driver simply took us on an off-roading detour!

When we finally arrived in Donkrokrom, it was dark and the whole village was outside watching an outdoor Ghanaian movie! Now let me say that this village is far from "developed." It was very strange...we met some strange people, but we made it safely to a guest house there.

The next morning we crossed another river by boat, and went to a village with lots of monkeys....we didn't stay there long- we then hiked up a huge mountain (through the rain forest) to Amedzofe with our friend April...and right before the three of us entered at the trail head April says, "oh yeah...on our way down there was a big Cobra in our path!" Jesse and I just looked at each other and started laughing. We made it up, and it was an amazing hike! Amedzofe is a beautiful place.

On Easter we hiked down the other side of the rain forest to a waterfall....i cannot even explain this experience!

Oh, one more thing- the scariest bugs i have seen yet in Africa happened to reside in our hotel room!

Well I am out of time, but I will blog again shortly...i am sure there is much more i want to say- just no time at the moment!

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

PHONE NUMBERS

I realized last night that my American cell phone was stolen (poor sucker who stole it....won't work here!), so i don't have anyones number. I have been wanting to call people, so email me your number! Amandanholt@gmail.com

Thank you all!

"Look at the Obruni"....followed by laughter....

So......a documentary on this school is being filmed. They came to film our dance class today....and unfortunately it is the one where I am the only white person- trying to dance traditional African dances!!!! Not only do i glow like a neon light amidst all the Ghanaians, but my body just refuses to flow with the music. Anyway, I was just laughing to myself all class at the thought of people being shown this video- with me, AMANDA HOLT, dancing with all these beautiful, wonderful African dancers...i just imagine them all laughing (as hard as i was as I thought of all this during the filming) and saying, "Watch the Obruni try!!!!"

Monday, March 17, 2008

Stilts and Huts....PEOPLE...Beauty. Comfort. Peace. Insight

Ah....this weekends adventures were so amazing...and much needed! i will try my best to explain the beauty, excitement, and thrill of my weekend, but quite honestly, i don't think words do the experience justice....

So, me and four friends (Jesse, Avra, Jenna and Duncan) left the university at 3am on Friday morning. We knew that it was going to be hard to get a taxi that early, so i arranged one the night before. Unfortunately he didn't show up! i was a little worried (of course) that we were going to miss our 4am bus, but fortunately this is Ghana and the concept of time barely exists. we arrived at the bus station "right on time" (such a loose term here) and we still ended up waiting for over an hour for our bus to leave!

Our first destination was to a small village built on stilts called Nzulezo. Of course none of us really knew how to get there, how long it should take, or even how to say the name of the place we were going....we were relying on a short blurb in the guide book and some broken directions from locals to get us there. We had to get off the bus in a large city called Tokoradi and find a tro-tro to take us the rest of the way....luckily some nice people had sympathy for us five Obruni's wondering aimlessly through the streets- they led us to the tro-tro station and helped us buy our 2 dollar tickets. Since we had been told that there was no tro-tro that went directly to this place, we were a little worried we were headed for some unknown destination. Nonetheless, we put or trust and faith in these people, and braved the tro-tro ride.

The Journey was long and bumpy..the tro-tro ride was 3 hours, but the drive was quite amazing and beautiful. It was so far away from the "city life." We got to pass through so many little villages.....it was so great to watch the people...and see the farm land...and just be surrounded by nature in general (i forget how much I love the country when i am in the city all the time!).

Anyway, after 6 hours of traveling we finally got to a quaint little village called Beyin. From here we walked about a mile through the wetlands-(which was so beautiful and peaceful. I finally felt like i was an in Africa... I fully expected to see and elephant cross in front of me- of course I didn't). We came to a swamp that we had to cross to get to our canoes...we had the choice of wading through it, or paying 50 cents to walk on a bridge (which looked like it could barley hold the weight of an ant). I chose the bridge...and although the branches it was made out of were extremely flexible, it was rather sturdy! We finally got to the canoes...the canoe ride to this village on stilts was SO BEAUTIFUL...quiet...relaxing! Lilly pads parted for us, and the birds sang for us the whole way.

We finally got to the village, and the only word I can think of right now to explain my reaction is awe....the place was not only beautiful, but it felt so comfortable and peaceful. Upon arrival, we met the chief of the village (who was actually the "acting chief" because the real chief was teaching in another village). funny enough...we had to great him with a bottle of gin in order to ask him questions....everything was already explained to us beforehand, so the meeting was brief- and before we parted he asked us for a "donation"....they say "give from your heart," but if you don't give an adequate amount he will ask for more (ah..... life)!

After meeting the chief we were free to roam the village. It was really interesting to compare the lifestyle of the people on this village to the people in other small villages...they seemed much more relaxed. All the little kids were playing in the water and most of the adults were laying outside of their hut sleeping. Some people were working (and when I say people i mean women- i saw very few men doing anything)- mostly preparing food..pounding fufu ect.

The thing about this village that makes it different that other villages, it that it is relatively sustainable. Most people living there make a living by farming (they have farm land in higher ground just outside of the village), or by making rafian wine out of the bark of a certain tree around there. Along with farming, there are a lot of chickens, goats, and tons of fish! The water that they live on is reportedly safe for the locals to drink (although, they do bathe in it and go to the bathroom in it...and it appears that it may also function as a trash can). With all of these resources, this village can survive (almost comfortably) without a lot of money....i think they make most of their money by taking Obruni's there every once in a while- and they don't have crafts or anything to sell! It was so refreshing to be with people and have real conversations without the ulterior motive of selling something.

Anyway, we spent our time there playing soccer with the kids, swimming in the water, and going on night canoing adventures. I spent the next morning listening to the clamor of the village while staring our over the glassy, quiet water...and i was filled with peace!

After our night on stilts, we set out for a new adventure...this time to Butre beach. Jesse and I decided we wanted to try village hopping before the beach, so we broke off from the group for the rest of the day. Our plan was to walk from village to village, but we soon realized that it would takes us weeks to get around that way (since they are so far in the country- and each one is like 20-40 miles apart! what were we thinking??) so we ended up in a few taxis. We really only got to one village called Axim. It was so fun- i encountered some of the most honest people ( and ironically some of the most dishonest people) that have yet to meet in Ghana in this village. during our time here we bought some palm wine (which tastes exactly like the smoked ham we have around Christmas) and we had lunch with a homeless man...and the reaction we got was rather saddening- this man was handicapped and people were making fun of him as he sat with us...they couldn't understand why we would buy him food! we talked with some other friendly people and even went to one woman's house....i would say the experience was great!

We finally got a taxi to take us to Butre beach to meet up with the other 3...and all I can say about this place is that it may be paradise! It is in another wonderful little village...with such wonderful people. the beach is so secluded.....quiet, calming, and beautiful! I spent the afternoon dancing with the little kids in the village, and talking to some people about life there- few people spoke very much English so communication was a little difficult, but it was good to hear from them. the village was full of families and goats...and disease (mostly elephantitis that I noticed). After dark, i went to our outdoor hut on the beach, read my book, and let the sound of the waves and cool breeze put me to sleep!

Before leaving to come back to Accra, I had the opportunity to go to the end of a church service in this village....it was all in fante so i couldn't understand it, but i had a palm branch to wave around! all the kids were so tickled with fascination and laughter with me...the only obruni in there (once again!). After church we took a 5 hour tro-tro ride back to Accra...which was long, hot, and uncomfortable...but i had a lot of time to think about my experiences....and grow from them.

My thought were turbulent...they went in circles from God, to money, to love, to control and back again....i struggled a bit with the fact that i live so comfortably while most of the world lives like the people i saw this weekend. Is is wrong to enjoy luxury? How do we all live well and comfortably...and without guilt or shame? There is something about life for these people that i will never grasp...that i am missing....How does money effect things....and how do we "fix" it?....but wait..that is just it- we are always thinking that we can "fix" things- like we know what is best... and what about the rich (they are people too!).... and oppression...and balance- and seeing people as PEOPLE- not as poor or rich...or as happy or suffering... seeing them on the inside not on the outside (regardless if they have money or not...if they are famished or fat...) and loving them! again...the theme of love- we are all people simply existing together...and we must love one another and share what we have to offer....

and what is the point to all this.....life....why did God put us here? why do we create and cling to meanings...and things that don't really matter....what does really matter? Anything?

All these thoughts.....and many more plague me at the moment, but i am learning a lot from them! No answers, but thinking is good!

I feel like there is so much more i could say about this experience...things that i wish I could explain. All in all though...i can pretty much sum up this experiences as beautiful, peaceful....and full of insights! A HUge growing experience for me..

God's Peace.....

Monday, March 3, 2008

Week Three.... castles, rainforests and praisin souls!

WOW...I know i have been slacking on my posts, so here comes a long one~ i will do my best to share my expereinces with you all, but I don't have alt of time at the moment.

Well, I have been here for three weeks now, and I am finally starting to get into the swing of things. After the first week and a half of euphoria, I started to noctice some cultural differences that I need to get used to- I defintely experienced a little "culture shock," but thanks to my "culture shock" class I was expecting the "culture shock 'W' "...and I am sure I am on my way to the top of the "W" now that I expereinced my low (which quite honestly was pretty mild and short lived!)

The hardest thing for me to adjust to so far is school...it is not so much that it is more difficult, but the teaching style is much different, and the thick Ghanaian accents are really hard to understand. Unfortunately, that makes physics much harder for me ( and those of you close to me know how good I am at physics!) My traditional singing class, drumming class, and all my dance classes are really fun- I think I am starting to blend in a little more...I am learning the African talents the best i can! While everything about school so far is pretty positive, i must say that 6 a.m classes kill me! I have two 6 a.m. classes, and on the other three days I have class at 7:30 a.m. Needless to say, I am pretty tired a lot of the time since it is almost impossible to nap here!

Last weekend was my first travel expereince in Ghana- we went west to Cape Coast...the first day we were there, we went to a slave trade castle and one the second day we did a conopy walk over the rainforest. The castle was a little bittersweet....it was this amazingly beautiful, white castle ( that was ironically build by the enslaved people) that overlooked the ocean. Unfortunately, the tour was very catered to tourists...nonetheless, most of it was still in its origional form- it was a very powerful feeling to be there...such a beautiful place for such a tragic happening. The rickety canopy walk above the rainforest was also pretty amazing, although I expected to see more animals...I only saw one money! To end the weekend, I shaved my head...my previous post is about that.

Aside from school and traveling, I also had the chance to check out a charismatic Ghanainan church. It was quite the experience for me...not just the church service, but the whole day turned into a big adventure.

The worship and the sermon were pretty much how I expected them to be- very lively! I love how much the people love praise here...they all sing and dance so happily- we did that for the first hour and a half! After worship, the pastor gave a very passionate sermon on brotherly love...such a beautiful, wonderful message- love, love, love...return evil with love! Unfortunately, the sermon took a few turns into societal/gernder roles, good and evil/heaven and hell- if you do evil and don't repent you go to hell....if you have God on your side, you will be saved from suffering....ect.. They also took 3 offereings!!! They said things like. "show your brotherly love" and "test God's mercy....give all your money and see how he will get you home!"

The message made me cringe a bit...but it got me thinking about "right" and "wrong" beliefs. Who am I to say they are wrong, and who are they to tell me that I am ging to hell for having a differnt perception?

The whole thing lastede 4 hours, and when it was done, I realized I had not money to get back to the University...needelss to say being stuck in the middle of Accra- hungry and with no money or phone credit- was an adventure! Don't worry, i made it home safely!

Well, my time is up...i will try to post more! If anyone wants to call me, try calling me from Skype

BALD, BEAUTIFUL, and CONFIDENT!!

YES...I did shave my head!

Too often we rely on our outward appearance to feel beautiful….our confidence is largely determined by how comfortable we feel in a given community- how well we fit in with the "norms" (if there really is such a thing)-how accepted we are by those surrounding us. We allow society to dictate our beauty….our confidence. We are all beautiful PEOPLE and we must be confident in that-in ourselves-regardless of how people view us and treat us based on our external appearancces...

My new year's resolution was to make this year about me- put more energy into myself. I am genrally a pretty strong, confident, and beautiful person- but those are charateristics that I want to continue exploring and making stronger! I want to feel comfortable...confident..and beautiful in my own skin regardless of circumstance. I want to learn to stand strong against the things that bring me down- I want to know that I am wonderful and beautiful in the mist of "ugliness" and despite judgement ...and I want to learn to be constructive with anger and frustration.

I shaved my head in order to further discover and strengthen my inner beauty and confidence- To be MYSELF and know that I am beautiful no matter how people treat me- I am not rejecting "social norms", but rather I am embracing what is not "normal" (again, if there is such a thing), and finding beauty and comfort in that. I am guilty of rejecting things and people that are "different" (as I am sure we all are to some extent), and I am hoping that this experience will open my eyes to that….broaden my horizons and teach me more about LOVING ALL PEOPLE…. people who follow the so called "norms," and those who do not. …

I am free of my hair and my inner beauty and confidence is left to shine brighter than ever!